The grafting methods of grape seedlings are two methods: grafting and greening grafting. Grape seedling grafting is one of the main ways to improve the resistance of grape seedlings. The grafting of grape seedlings improves the disease resistance of the grapes, anti-root nodules and nematodes. And plays an important role in the resistance to poor soil conditions. Especially in the cold regions of northern China, mountain grapes or Beida are used as rootstocks to improve the cold resistance of grape roots by grafting seedlings, thereby expanding the excellent varieties and cultivation areas. The southern part of China uses 5BB or SO4 as rootstocks for grafting to achieve moisture resistance. Resistance to hydrazine and adaptation to acidic soils. Some production and research units use grafting methods to solve mixed problems and replace new varieties. Gardening enthusiasts often achieve a tree and fruit through grafting to extend the picking season and enhance the purpose of viewing.
First, the grafting time (there are three time periods to choose from): 1. In late March to early April, the grafting of hard branches with hard branches is carried out. 2. Select the annual thick, full and mature branches, cut into single bud segments, and carry out the method of grafting hard branches with green branches in late May. 3. From late May to early June, grafting with green branches grafted with green branches.
Second, commonly used grafting methods:
1. Tongue connection method: Cut the base of the scion into a bevel, the slope is about 3 cm long, first cut a knife down at the 1/3 of the slope (avoid vertical cut) 1.5-2.0 cm deep, then cut obliquely from the top of the noodles To form a double tongue-shaped cut surface, the rootstock is also cut as above, and then the two facets are inserted together. The tongue-joining rootstock is very tightly combined with the scion, and it can be simply tied after grafting.
2, splicing method: the lower end of the scion is cut into a wedge shape on both sides, the slope is 3-5 cm long, the upper end of the rootstock cutting bar is cut flat and cut from the center, the incision is 3-5 cm deep, and then the scion is inserted into the rootstock slit Align the layer and tie it with plastic film or wire or rope.
3. Grafting with roots and seedlings: Grafting with roots of one or two year old rootstocks before planting in winter or in spring, you can also plant rootstocks and graft them first, using tongue or cut.
4, grafting cutting propagation: when grafting seedlings, use Beida, Betan, Longan, Jufeng and other varieties that are easy to cut into roots for rootstock cuttings, and other excellent varieties for scion.
The hard branches in the spring must be cut off to the upper branches, affecting the results of the year, while the summer green branches are difficult to extract strong branches, and the results of the next year are few or no results. After harvesting the grapes, the single-faced tile-like buds are used for grafting and grafting. The survival rate is over 95%, and the results can be obtained in the same year.
Third, the top ten matters needing attention:
1. Selection of rootstock: The rootstock must grow robustly and the leaves are intact. The thickness of the selected rootstock seedlings should be roughly the same as the thickness of the scion branches, and they must be semi-lignified. Rootstocks (with root parts) should use two-year-old or annual-born, root-developed, vigorous, disease-free and non-injured grape seedlings as rootstocks, pre-fertilized, watered after planting, and timely flattening (two in the lower root of each seedling) Full of buds, cut off the seedlings above it). The rootstock cuttings are 20-25 cm long. If the rootstock and the scion are roughly the same thickness, the tongue joint method is often used; if the rootstock is thicker than the scion, the cutting method is often used. Leave 3 to 4 leaves on the rootstock seedlings, cut into flats 10 to 12 cm from the ground, and cut the diameter of the rootstocks to more than 1 cm. In the middle of the flat cuttings of the cut rootstocks, use a knife to squat vertically. 3 cm long incision, in order to insert the scion, the cutting interface should be north-south (the future insertion of the buds of the scion is sunny, which is conducive to growth).
2, the choice of scion branches: the branches of the scion should be full and mature. Use strong winter buds (the branches are strong, can mature early), without petiole (grafting can be tightly bandaged, airtight, high survival rate). Remove the fruit bunches on the scion branches, the secondary shoots next to the winter buds, and all the petioles beforehand, leaving only one bud per scion. Leave 1 cm at the upper end of the scion bud and 4 cm at the lower end of the scion bud. (After 20 to 30 days before grafting, the fruit bunches on the scion branches are removed), which promotes the growth of the scion branches. After cutting the scion, use a knife to cut a 2.5-3 cm long bevel cut 1 cm from the sides of the scion buds to make it wedge-shaped. The two bevels to be cut should be symmetrical and uniform, and the cuts should be smooth and smooth. When grafting for beginners, the cuttings should be cut with young shoots such as poplars and willows two days in advance, and the trial cuts should be carried out to enhance the proficiency.
3. The grafting part of the grape stem is not less than 30 cm, not higher than 130 cm, and each plant is grafted with 10 to 15 buds. The main vines are separated by 20 to 30 cm. The healthy branches are selected from the base, 5 to 10 from the base. Grafted at centimeters.
4, in the inter-section splicing, the interface 劈 to the section (at the diaphragm), the length of the incision to 4-5cm, and remove all the buds on the rootstock. The scissor is smoothed and the layers are aligned and the interface is tied tightly. Before the grafting, the scion is completely waxed and the top of the scion is sealed.
5. The tool should be sharp when grafting. The thickness of the rootstock seedlings should be roughly the same as the thickness of the scion branches, and they should be semi-lignified (that is, the medulla of the stem is white). Use the scion to be as close as possible to the material, and use it as soon as possible. After the cutting, the leaves are removed and wrapped with a damp cloth.
6. The grafting operation can be carried out indoors. In order to make the graft interface heal quickly after grafting, it is necessary to warm up to promote healing. The heating method is the same as the aforementioned rooting method. It usually heals after 15-20 days of interface.
7. The rootstock is wrapped with thick plastic ties and can be tied tightly; the scion is wrapped with a thin plastic ties, which can wrap all parts of the scion tightly, airtight, and without water, which is beneficial to survive. This can make the grafted seedlings grow thick, sophisticated, and highly lignified, and some fruit seedlings can also see fruit in the same year.
8, the use of scion should be as close as possible to the material, with the use of mining, immediately after the cutting, the leaves are wrapped with a damp cloth, shaded spare (if you need to pick up the ear from a long distance, apply the wide mouth thermos storage and transport scion, the bottle contains ice cooling Moisturize and prevent the scion from losing water).
9. Grafting and dressing: Insert the cut scion into the incision of the rootstock immediately. Do not drench the incision and the scion of the rootstock, and do not use hormones or adhesives to avoid the survival. Align the side with the bud of the scion south, align the rootstock with the layer on the bud side of the scion (ie, align the cortex), and expose the root of the scion 0.3 cm to the upper side of the scissor, revealing a small incision to facilitate healing of the rootstock and scion wound And immediately use a plastic cable ties with a thickness of 0.08 mm, a width of 1 to 1.2 cm, and a length of 20 to 25 cm to wrap the rootstock, tie it tightly from the bottom to the top, tie the mouth of the rootstock, and then use a thickness of 0.03 mm and a width of 1.5. The plastic cable ties of centimeters and lengths of 20 to 25 centimeters are all tightly wrapped around the scion of the rootstock. Only the buds are exposed. The corners of the top of the scion must be tightly packed and not breathable.
10. Management after grafting: Immediately after grafting, water should be poured once. After seeing dry watering in time, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium multi-element fertilizer should be applied, and weeding should be removed. After 7 to 10 days, sprouting sprouts and new shoots, and growing the third leaf when the flower grows. Some of the strong seedlings will take the second flower spike after the fourth to fifth leaves, and the flower spikes on the seedlings should be removed in time. When the grafted seedling grows to a height of 20 to 25 cm, it is necessary to insert the rod in time to prevent the wind from falling. Usually, the axillary bud on the rootstock should be removed in time. When the grafted seedling grows 7 to 8 leaves, the tip is flattened. After the sharpening, the sprouts are sprouted from the leaf axils, leaving one of the top buds to grow upwards, and the other buds that grow under the leaves are topped with a leaf (ie, sharpened). When the top buds grow 7 to 8 leaves, they can be topped again. After grafting, pay attention to the prevention and control of pests and diseases, spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and other foliar fertilizer every 20 days, and spray 2 or 3 times. The plastic tie for the grafted part should not be removed too early, so it is better to release it after the fall or the next spring.
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