1 Bamboo fiber properties and blended fabric characteristics
Bamboo fiber is a regenerated cellulose fiber obtained by using the bamboo produced in China as a raw material and processed by a special high-tech process. Because bamboo fiber is degradable, it has no pollution to the environment after degradation, so it is called environmental fiber. Bamboo fiber has high strength, good elasticity, good wear resistance and drapability, as well as good moisture absorption and moisture permeability, gas permeability and natural antibacterial properties. After testing, bamboo fiber has antibacterial function against Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Bacillus megaterium and other bacteria, and the antibacterial rate reaches 73% in 24h. Bamboo/cotton/Tianshi blended fabric combines the advantages of three kinds of fibers, which have the properties of soft, moisture-absorbing, comfortable and warm cotton fiber, and have bamboo fiber abrasion resistance, antibacterial, anti-ultraviolet radiation, moisture absorption, cool and dry. The silk fiber is smooth and elegant, so the bamboo/cotton/tencel blend fabric is a high-end apparel fabric. The garment made of it is cool and comfortable, and it is not suitable for underwear, sportswear, summer apparel fabrics, etc.
2 grey cloth specifications and dyeing process
2.1 grey cloth specifications
Bamboo / cotton / Tencel (40/40/20) 9.8/14.6668/438170cm
2.2 Process
Preparation of grey cloth → singeing → desizing → low alkali cold rolling pile scouring → bleaching → mercerizing → dyeing → non-iron finishing → drying → shaping tenter → pre-shrinking → finished product
3 dyeing and finishing process
3.1 singeing
The surface of the bamboo/cotton/tencel fiber blend fabric has a part of short hair, and a small amount of cottonseed shell and hair ball. If it is not singeed or the hair is not clean, it not only affects the effect of the cloth surface, but also causes uneven dyeing and fading due to the bonding of the bristles in the printing and dyeing process, causing rickets, affecting product quality and style, and consuming more dyeing materials. Therefore, the singeing process is particularly important. Singeing process: two positive and two reverse, speed: 110m / min, singeing quality 3-4.
3.2 desizing
Since the starch slurry is mainly used for weaving, a chemical pulp such as polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) is additionally added. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to the protective fiber when selecting the preparation, and the starch which is selectively degraded to the starch slurry, has high activity and good stability is selected. The oil, wax and the like in the fabric have no damaging effect. When the pH value is 5-9, the preparation maintains high activity, so that the desizing is quick and uniform, so as to obtain a better desizing effect. Therefore, we chose Novozymes' 2000L desizing, using 2g/L.
3.3 scouring
Due to the presence of natural pigments in bamboo fiber, whiteness is higher than that of cotton fiber. If bamboo fiber is blended with cotton, the whiteness and wool effect are significantly different. If the pretreatment is not good, the whiteness uniformity of the fabric will be deteriorated. The fabric is lowered in strength and affects the dyeing performance. The higher the concentration of NaOH, the better the wool effect of the fabric, but the alkali resistance and oxidant resistance of bamboo fiber are worse than that of cotton fiber, so it should be scoured in a lower NaOH thick-rolled pile.
3.4 bleaching
After scouring, the whiteness of the blended fabric is not good enough, and the fabric surface is yellowed, which affects the dyeing. We bleached after scouring. Therefore, oxygen bleach stabilizers, high-efficiency scouring agents, chelating agents and the like are required to have low foaming, anti-catalysis, small damage to fibers, waxy properties, and easy to remove in water washing. By comparison, a chelate compounding scouring agent is selected and mixed with sodium silicate. H2O2: 3 g/L; DKB321: 6 g/L; Na2SiO3: 4 g/L; JFC: 2 g/L; complexing agent 540: 2 g/L; pH: 95-100; temperature: 98 ° C, time: 40 min.
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